Gravel biking is more than just cycling – it's freedom, adventure, and discovery. With a gravel bike, you leave the asphalt behind and open yourself up to a world of gravel roads, forest trails, and secluded country lanes. It's the perfect fusion of road bike efficiency and off-road capability.

The gravel scene is booming worldwide. What began as a niche has become one of the fastest-growing cycling disciplines. Its appeal lies in its versatility: one bike for everything – from commuting to Sunday rides to multi-day bikepacking adventures.

What is gravel biking?

Gravel cycling combines elements of various cycling disciplines: the speed and efficiency of road cycling, the off-road capability of mountain biking, the endurance of long-distance riding, and the adventurous spirit of bikepacking. The result: a sport that pushes boundaries – literally and figuratively.

The gravel philosophy

Unlike road cycling, gravel riding is often less about speed records and power output, and more about the experience: discovering new routes, enjoying nature, overcoming challenges, and experiencing camaraderie. This doesn't exclude competition – gravel races are spectacular and demanding. But at its core, it's about the adventure.

The gravel bike is designed for versatility – a compromise in the best sense.

Frame

Materials: Carbon (lightweight, dampens vibrations), aluminum (robust, affordable), steel (comfortable, durable), titanium (premium, long-lasting). Geometry: Longer wheelbase than a road bike = more stable. Higher bottom bracket = more ground clearance. Shorter top tube = more upright position, better for long days. Mounting points: For fenders, racks, and additional bottle cages – bikepacking-ready.

Tires and wheels

The main difference compared to a road bike: Wider tires: 35-50mm (road bike: 25-32mm). More grip on loose surfaces. Better damping on rough terrain. Tread pattern: Depending on the surface – from almost slick to knobby. Tubeless: Standard for gravel bikes – fewer punctures, lower pressure possible. Wheel size: 700c (standard) or 650b (for even wider tires).

drive

Versatile gearing is needed: 2x (two chainrings): More range, proven technology. 1x (one chainring): Simpler, lighter, less to break. Large cassette (10-50 or similar) for steep climbs. Drivetrain: Shimano GRX, SRAM Rival/Force AXS – gravel-specific.

brakes

Disc brakes are standard on gravel bikes: better braking performance in wet and muddy conditions. More tire clearance. Hydraulic (more power, better modulation) or mechanical (easier to maintain on the road).

Gravel riding requires different skills than pure road riding. On loose surfaces, the rules change.

Basic position

Relaxed posture: Loose grip on the handlebars, no tense shoulders. Elbows slightly bent – ​​they act as shock absorbers. Look ahead: Look further ahead than you would on the road. Register obstacles, but focus on your line.

Braking on loose surfaces

Use careful braking: Locking wheels mean loss of control. Apply more rear brake than on asphalt. Brake before curves, not in curves. On downhill slopes: Shift your weight to the rear.

Cornering technique

On gravel: Lean the bike less than on asphalt. Outside pedal down, weight on it. On loose surfaces: Reduce speed before the corner. Drifting is sometimes unavoidable – stay relaxed!

Obstacles

Roots and stones: Adjust your speed and drive smoothly over the obstacle. Puddles and mud: Drive through them, don't swerve (often the edge is worse). Ruts: Cross them at the correct angle, don't drive parallel to them.

Departures

Shift your weight back. Keep your fingers on the brakes, but don't brake constantly. On very steep descents: lower the saddle (dropper post!). Plan your line – correcting on loose surfaces is difficult.

Gravel training combines endurance with technical skills and specific strength.

Aerobic base

As with any endurance sport, Zone 2 training is the foundation. Long rides (3-6 hours) build the necessary endurance for gravel events. Much of this endurance can be trained on the road.

Terrain-specific training

Ride regularly on the surfaces you can expect at events: gravel of varying sizes, forest tracks, dirt roads, and technical singletrack trails (if your event includes them). Train off-road at least 1-2 times per week.

Strength endurance

Gravel riding often requires lower cadences than road riding: sweet spot intervals at 60-70 rpm. Hill repetitions on loose surfaces. Strength training in the gym: squats, deadlifts, core exercises.

Intervals on gravel

Example sessions: 4 x 10 min. tempo/threshold on gravel (5 min. rest). 6 x 3 min. VO2max on varied terrain. Fartlek: Unstructured pace changes depending on the terrain.

Bike handling skills

Separate sessions for technique: practicing cornering on loose surfaces. Braking under different conditions. Overcoming obstacles. Descending slopes of varying gradients.

Gravel races are a world of their own – often long, always adventurous, with a special community.

What can you expect?

Distances: From 50 km to 300+ km. Duration: 2 hours to 24+ hours. Terrain: Mix of gravel, asphalt, trails, and dirt roads. Elevation gain: From flat to mountainous. Food and drink: Often self-supported or at checkpoints.

Legendary Events

Unbound Gravel (USA, Kansas): The world's biggest gravel event. 100, 200, 350 miles. Migration Gravel Race (Kenya): Through the Masai Mara, spectacular. Dirty Kanza: The origin, now Unbound. Gravel World Championships: UCI World Championships since 2022. Grinduro: Gravel + Enduro – only certain sections are timed. In Germany: Orbit360, Jeromin Gravel, Rhön Gravel.

Race strategies

Pacing: More conservative than in pure road races – the terrain is unpredictable. Nutrition: Essential for long events. 60-90g of carbohydrates per hour. Checkpoints: Strategy for aid stations. Equipment: Spare inner tube, pump, multi-tool – punctures are more frequent than on the road.

Self-Supported Events

Many gravel events are self-supported: no team vehicles, food from shops along the route, and repairs must be carried out independently. This requires planning and self-sufficiency.

Bikepacking is the logical extension of the gravel concept: taking your bike into the wilderness, traveling for several days, with everything you need.

What is bikepacking?

Bikepacking differs from traditional bicycle touring: lighter equipment, bags on the frame instead of a rack, off-road capability, and a minimalist approach.

equipment

Bags: Saddlebag (large, for sleeping system). Frame bag (for heavy items). Handlebar bag (for clothing, light items). Top tube bag (for snacks, mobile phone). Sleeping system: Lightweight tent, bivy, or tarp. Sleeping bag and sleeping mat. Clothing: Layers, multifunctional. Food: Dry food, snacks, stove (optional).

planning

Route: Komoot, Bikepacking.com, local resources. Water: Identify sources, bring a filter if necessary. Accommodation: Wild camping (where permitted), campsites, guesthouses. Emergency plan: What if? Phone, power bank, emergency shelter.

well-known routes

Tour Divide (USA): 4,400 km along the Rocky Mountains. Silk Road Mountain Race (Kyrgyzstan): Extreme and spectacular. Torino-Nice Rally (Alps): Across the Alps. Germany: Elbe Sandstone Mountains, Black Forest, Harz Mountains – many local routes.

Tires are the decisive factor for performance and comfort when riding gravel bikes.

Tire width

35-38mm: Faster on hard surfaces, less comfort. 40-45mm: The all-rounder – good for most conditions. 47-50mm+: Maximum comfort and grip, slower on asphalt. Rule of thumb: As wide as necessary for the surface, as narrow as possible for efficiency.

profile

Slick/Semi-Slick: For firm surfaces, fast, low grip in wet conditions. File Tread: Light tread pattern, versatile. Mixed/Allround: Medium-sized knobs, good compromise. Chunky Tread: For mud and loose terrain, slow on asphalt.

Tubeless

Tubeless is standard for gravel tires: Fewer punctures (sealant seals small holes). Lower pressure is possible (more comfort and grip). Lighter than tires with inner tubes. Setup: Tubeless-ready rims and tires, sealant, valves.

Tire pressure

The correct tire pressure is critical: Too high: harsh ride, bounces over bumps, less grip. Too low: pinch flats, spongy feel, tire roll. Guideline values ​​(varies depending on weight, tire, and surface): 35mm tires: 2.5-3.5 bar. 40mm tires: 2.0-3.0 bar. 45mm+ tires: 1.5-2.5 bar. Experiment! Start with higher pressures and gradually reduce them.

Navigation is essential on unfamiliar gravel roads – you can't rely on road signs here.

Route planning tools

Komoot: Most popular platform, good gravel routing function, community routes. Strava: Heatmaps show where others are riding. RideWithGPS: Powerful planning tools, good GPX exports. Outdooractive: Alternative with good maps. OpenStreetMap: Basis for many apps, often shows the best gravel roads.

The GPS computer

A GPS device with navigation is essential: Garmin Edge, Wahoo ELEMNT, Hammerhead. Upload GPX tracks and follow them. Turn-by-turn directions, rerouting if you get lost. Save maps offline – no cell phone reception in the field.

Route planning

When planning, consider the following: Terrain type: Not every path is rideable. Gradients: Off-road, gradients of 10%+ on loose soil are very strenuous. Water sources: Identify them for long tours. Escape options: Routes back to civilization in case of problems. Weather dependency: Some paths are impassable in the rain.

On site

Study the map: Even with GPS, get a feel for the region. Ask locals: They often know the best routes. Be flexible: Sometimes the planned route isn't passable – have alternatives.

Gravel rides are often long and remote – nutrition requires more planning than on the road.

The problem

Unlike on the road: No gas stations every 20 km. No cafes along the way. Longer time between food options. You need to carry more.

capacity

Water bottles: At least two 750ml bottles, often more. Additional containers: Hydration bladder in your backpack, extra bottle in your frame bag. Snacks: Take more than you think – gravel riding burns a lot of energy.

What to bring?

Tried-and-tested gravel snacks: Bars (muesli, energy, protein bars). Gels for quick energy. 'Real' food: Sandwiches, bananas, dates. Nuts and dried fruit (calorie-dense). For long rides: Salt tablets or electrolytes to prevent cramps.

Refill on the go

Plan your strategy: Where can you find water? (Fountains, cemeteries, restaurants) Are there any shops along the route? Are there any natural water sources (filters are necessary!)? At events: Use checkpoints, don't skip them.

calorie requirement

Gravel riding burns more calories than road riding (uneven surface, more effort required). 500-800 kcal per hour is realistic. For 6-hour rides: 2,500-4,000 kcal – that's a lot of food!

Breakdowns are more frequent off-road – and help is further away. Preparation is everything.

The most common problems

Flat tires/tire damage: It happens even with tubeless setups. Chain problems: Broken, jammed, stiff links. Gears: Misaligned after impacts. Brakes: Worn pads, bent rotors. Spoke breakage: From hard impacts.

What you should bring

Minimum for every ride: Spare inner tube (even for tubeless setups!). Tubeless repair kit (sausages). Tire levers. Mini pump or CO2 cartridges. Multi-tool (with chain tool). Chain lock. For longer/more remote tours, additionally: Second spare inner tube. Spare derailleur hanger. Spoke wrench. Duct tape. Cable ties.

Tubeless repair

For small punctures: Sealant does the job – turn the wheel so the hole faces downwards. For larger punctures: Insert a tubeless tube. For a tear/large puncture: Install a tube.

Use chain riveter

Broken chain: Remove the damaged links. Reassemble the shortened chain using a chain tool. Use a master link. The chain will be shorter – some gears may no longer be usable.

Mental preparation

Breakdowns happen. Stay calm. Proceed systematically. If nothing else works: push or hitchhike.